From the Hearth

chef's adventures in bread making part one

2011-05-18T10:13:00.002-04:00

blue ribbon french bread
from bernard clayton's new complete book of breads

sweet potato & parsnip soup with fresh thyme

2011-05-15T17:16:00.004-04:00

So, I have started a cheese making apprenticeship at greystone farm and creamery. The owner and cheese maker, Sally Hutchinson, had an idea about making soups out of the leftover whey produced by the creamery to sell at the farmer's markets along with the cheeses. I told her I could help come up with several seasonal recipes using the whey and local produce.

Here is part one:

Sweet Potato & Parsnip Soup with fresh Thyme

1 spanish onion, sliced
3 sweet potatoes, peeled & diced
4 parsnips, peeled & diced
5 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 - 3/4 gallon whey (if you don't have access to whey you could substitute 1/2 stock and 1/2 milk... and maybe throw in a few rinds from hard cheeses like parmesan for flavor)
salt & pepper
oil for sauteing

1. saute onions in 2 T oil in a soup pot over medium heat until translucent
2. add diced sweet potatoes & parsnips, add 4 fresh thyme sprigs
3. cover all ingredients with fresh liquid whey
4. bring to a boil, then turn down and let simmer on medium low for 1 1/2 hours
5. once the sweet potatoes & parsnips are very very soft, turn off the heat and let it cool a bit
6. pull out the thyme sprigs & discard
7. puree the soup in batches in a blender or food processor
8. put back into pot and add salt and pepper to taste
9. garnish with more fresh thyme, sour cream, hot sauce, or whatever you'd like, & enjoy!

brussels sprouts & bacon

2011-02-27T13:52:00.003-05:00

a simple twist on roasted brussels sprouts- add chopped bacon to the pan and roast for 10 minutes before adding brussels sprouts & chopped onions, seasoning with a bit of olive oil & salt and pepper. Then roast it all at 400F until the brussels sprouts and onions are caramelized and the bacon is crispy. Eat right away.

chocolate creme brulee

2011-02-27T11:59:00.005-05:00

try making this very easy & elegant dessert at home. If you don't have a torch to brulee the tops, you can use your broiler with the rack placed in the highest position.

1 1/4 C heavy cream
4 egg yolks
1 vanilla bean
4 oz. dark bittersweet chocolate
1 T sugar
4-5 T sugar for topping

1. heat the cream & vanilla bean over a double boiler, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes. remove the vanilla bean and save for something else. add chocolate and stir until melted completely, then remove mixture from heat.
2. whisk together egg yolks and sugar in a metal bowl big enough to fit on top of the double boiler
3. slowly pour the chocolate cream into the egg mixture, whisking while you pour.
4. place the mixture back on the double boiler and turn to low heat. Let simmer for 5 minutes or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
5. divide mixture into 4 ramekins and place in a baking dish. fill the baking dish with enough water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in a pre-heated 300 F oven for up to one hour or until set.
6. remove from the water bath and cool completely before sprinkling remaining sugar on top and caramelizing with brulee torch or broiler. enjoy!

a take on detroit's famous "zip sauce"

2011-02-15T17:08:00.003-05:00

i don't personally keep steak sauce in my refrigerator, so here is my fresh take on a detroit special sauce that adds a lot of flavor to steak, chops, roasts (or whatever you want to put it on).

you can use your blender or food processor for this to make it really smooth.

3-4 cloves garlic, peeled
3-4 leaves fresh sage
2 sprigs fresh thyme, de-stemmed
1 sprig fresh rosemary, de-stemmed
freshly cracked black pepper to taste (i use about 1 teaspoon)
big pinch of cumin
big pinch of cayenne pepper
2 T dijon mustard
1/4 cup worcestershire sauce
1/8 cup soy sauce
1 T tomato paste (or ketchup if it's all ya got)

blend all of these ingredients and then whisk in 1/3-1/2 cups of pan drippings, melted butter, or olive oil depending on your tastes and viscosity preference.

disclaimer: this is in no way the original recipe for "zip sauce", this is a recipe i created akin to the famous sauce and anti bottled corporate sauces like A1. please enjoy! -e.b.

appetite city

2011-02-06T22:09:00.002-05:00

Just want to recommend a book I am reading right now called "Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York" by William Grimes. If you are interested in the foodie culture of the U.S. this is where it all started... plus, there's a whole chapter about oysters. My Grandmother got it for me for xmas. Thanks, Grandma.

farewell to eve & the new frita batidos

2011-01-26T19:15:00.002-05:00

Last week eve-the restaurant in Ann Arbor held it's last dinner service and closed their doors. Despite what caused the restaurant to close, and there are many rumors, I am shocked to hear about such a sudden decision despite the place's seeming success. Eve Aranoff, the chef owner of eve, has opened a new venture "frita batidos" on w. washington st. downtown Ann Arbor in the former location of "Cafe du Jour". Even though our dining experiences at eve had their ups and downs we decided to try out her AmeriCuban take on informal dining.
The shared seating is the first thing I noticed about the all-white dining room- and I was not bothered by this because of my outgoing personality. I even tried my neighbor's discarded conch fritters ($0 free score!) while we waited for our beverages. Despite being cold, the fritters had a good texture, and came with a variety of sauces (always a good thing). Side note, if you didn't want to meet or talk to anyone, you might want to sit next to the napkins.
My date ordered a double espresso ($6) and a ginger lime juice ($2.5) served in a plastic sandwich bag tied around a straw. I think the bag was a really authentic street food touch, but it wouldn't stay upright and spilled a bit on to my date. I stayed tried and true with a mexican coca cola, real sugar, glass bottle, the best ($2). The alcoholic drinks menu was a fake out- they haven't secured their liquor license yet.
We ordered from the counter: one pulled pork sandwich ($8) and one chorizo frita ($7). Both were flavorful and has well matched accompaniments. The pulled pork was tender and the sweet chili mayo the came along top was at the right level of gluttony without being too much.
The chorizo could have been spicier, in fact, everything could have been spicier.
The best thing about this place is it is open until midnight, and most places in town close by 10, and maybe you'll meet someone new at your table (but you probably already know everyone who lives here, this is Ann Arbor).

tomato & onion relish

2010-09-29T21:05:00.006-04:00

Last weekend we helped our friends ''eat'' catering do a 180 person wedding in north ann arbor on a beautiful farm property (horse, barn cats & tire swing included). They had a crostini with a very simple tomato and onion "jam" i will now attempt to replicate. This recipe can be stored in the refrigerator and eaten within two weeks or canned and stored through the winter.

3 pints cherry tomatoes, halved
2 large spanish or vidalia onions, rough chop
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 cup vinegar (you can experiment here- i use apple cider vin)
splash of olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt

1) sauteed the onions in oil until caramelized
2) add the rest of the ingredients and stir thoroughly
3) bring the mixture to a low boil and turn the heat down to a simmer
4) let simmer for 1.5-2 hours or until it reaches your desired consistency
5) let cool and either enjoy that week or can it for later

suggestions: serve with seared salmon, steak or chicken / eat on toast with cream cheese or goat cheese / use on a BLT in winter months

on holiday in london, devon & cornwall, England

2010-07-04T17:17:00.002-04:00

We were recently travelling in southern england and came across some amazing food along the way. Trying to be frugal in London was a daunting task but we found an italian lunch counter in soho with a uniquely chaotic queue: Princi. This love-child of Asian chef Alan Yau and an italian bakery chain was trendy and chic but still cheap enough for us to enjoy a filling lunch for under 25 quid. Maybe it was us and we just didn't know what to do, or assert ourselves in the right way, and maybe it was okay to get cut in front of by three or four other, more experienced Princi customers because we were still making up our minds and drooling on the glass cases of pastries, pizzas, salads, and pastas. Finally, our turn and we ordered a plateful of three salads. One was simply fresh mozzarella with thick cuts of tomato and fresh basil. The second a marinated, roasted eggplant salad. And the third, a classic panzanella with housebaked croutons from one of their airy italian loaves. For a main course, we decided on a hot layered eggplant dish with a tomato based sauce and mozzarella.

For Dessert we ordered a classic cannoli filled with a thick and sweet ricotta and capped with chocolate shavings. Also, we couldn't resist a smaller pastry to boot. We would have loved to be able to splurge again and go back to this place... and maybe we just might have to take a detour between flights into Gatwick and out of Heathrow. More to come...

leftover milk= sweet sweet love

2009-12-02T19:01:00.002-05:00

before the milk in our fridge has a chance to go sour I usually try to do some sort of culinary wonder and turn it into something that will last for another two to three weeks. this is by far my favorite method: dulce de leche (aka caramel , manjar blanco)

start by adding 4 cups of non-homo milk to a saucepan over medium heat.
then add 1 cup sugar & 1 vanilla bean (split & scraped), stirring occasionally until all the sugar has dissolved. then add 1 tbsp. baking soda, stirring to combine, then turn the heat down and let reduce for about 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until the mixture has thickened & turned caramel in color. you will yield about 1-1 1/2 cups. strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. Put it on everything.

adventures in baking from a cook's point of view

2009-11-03T21:25:00.003-05:00

we caved in and bought a cuisinart mixer. and so far i've baked two different kinds of bread: something resembling a ciabatta and what for lack of better adjectives i will dub a "home-oven" baguette. both turned out pretty much like standard white bread, so i'm not going to share any tricks i've learned just yet, but i did start to perfect my irish scones. this dough is light and easy to work with, almost like a biscuit dough. recipe as follows:
3 cups white flour, plus more for dusting
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 large eggs, beaten, plus 1 egg, beaten for eggwash
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 T baking powder
3/4 stick of butter
1 C + 2 T buttermilk
1/2 C dried currants

mix all ingredients except eggwash in large mixing bowl until sticky dough forms, turn out onto a floured surface and roll with a floured pin until 2 inches thick. cut the dough into 2 inch rounds with cookie cutter or drinking glass. repeat with scraps. eggwash the tops of biscuits and let sit in refridgerator for 30 min. pre-heat oven to 425 F. brush biscuits again with eggwash and bake on top rack for 12-15 minutes or until tops and bottoms are browned.

seared haddock & shrimp and corn risotto

2009-10-19T11:00:00.004-04:00

here's a recipe we came up with for seared haddock, an atlantic flaky white fish similar to cod.

for the risotto:
- 1 cup risotto
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 2-2-1/2 cups chicken stock
- 1/3 cup chopped onion
- 1/3 cup sweet corn kernels
- 1/2 cup chopped pre-poached shrimp
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- salt & pepper, cajun spice (optional)
1) melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat
2) add onions, sautee 3 minutes or until sweaty
3) add corn and risotto, sautee another couple minutes
4) add 1/2 C stock at a time until risotto is al dente
5) add heavy cream and fold in chopped shrimp, salt and pepper, and cajun spice

for the fish:
-sprinkle 2 fillets with salt & pepper and let sit at room temp for 10 minutes.
- 1 tablespoon rendered bacon fat
1) melt bacon fat in shallow skillet over medium high heat
2) when fat reaches desired heat, place fillets in skillet skin side up
3) let sear for 1-2 minutes, flip and repeat until flesh starts to flake open

serve with risotto and dark hearty greens.

review from "cafe selma" & brandy apricot french toast recipe

2009-08-22T19:01:00.005-04:00

"There was a lot of excitement about the two specials Monica and Emil created–the first was a brandied apricot french toast made with Zingerman’s challah and served with amaretto flavored whipped cream. This dish was melt-in-your-mouth comfort food that pleased everyone who was lucky enough (or awake enough) to get to SELMA early to eat it before it was gone. I’m already composing a request to Monica and Emil for a repeat performance of this knock-out creation before summer’s end.

Their second special was just as delicious, and a brand new breakfast dish for SELMA as well. The favors were Northern African–a Tunisian and Moroccan combo of spices that made mouth’s water and stomachs growl. Turkey sausage wrapped in a filo-like pastry was rich and satisfying, served with a perfect poached egg and an orange flavored dressing atop bitter greens made everyone who ate it leave the table happy. There were many sighs of deep contentment throughout the morning. Monica and Emil–we bow down to you!!" -Lisa & Jeff from "Cafe Selma"

so, if you weren't there because you couldn't get up that early, you had to work, or were otherwise indisposed, or if you were there and now are on a quest to reproduce this sweet breakfast creation, here is the recipe for all:

brandy & apricot french toast

serves two people (four large slices)

day old challah or french bread, cut into 3/4 inch slices

for french toast batter:

2 large eggs, beaten

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup milk

1/2 oz. amaretto (we use disaronno)

1/2 oz. apricot brandy

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

-mix all ingredients with a whisk in a large shallow bowl

for the brandied apricot topping:

4 ripe apricots, pitted and quartered

2 tablespoons butter

1 oz. apricot brandy

3 tablespoons brown sugar

-sautee apricots in butter on high for 1-2 minutes, add brandy and keep over high heat 30 seconds, then turn to medium low and add brown sugar. stir until sugar is melted and thoroughly incorporated. remove from heat.

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

whip until stiff peaks form

pre-heat a large skillet or griddle to medium high heat. brush with butter. soak your bread slices in egg mixture 10 seconds at least on each side. cook each side in butter 3-4 minutes or until browned. top with brandied apricots and whipped cream. enjoy.

michigan lake trout & green beans two ways

2009-07-15T12:42:00.006-04:00

trout is one of michigan's firmer fleshed fish without a whole lot of bones to worry about. if you're buying whole trout, here's a link to directions for filleting your fresh market purchase or freshly caught prize. otherwise, you're ready to go- usually fishmongers pull out most of the bones, even pin bones sometimes, for you ahead of time. to check if there's any pin bones left, simply run your fingers over the fillets and you will be able to feel them. they can be removed easily with tweezers, pliers, or your fingers. pat your fillets dry with a clean towel and season lightly with salt and pepper.

lime, basil & cilantro trout with red curry green beans (for two)
a. heat a skillet large enough for about two handfuls green beans and melt 1 tbsp butter over medium heat
b. add 1 clove minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds before adding 2 tsp red curry paste, and 1/2 can coconut milk to pan, mix together with wooden spoon
c. add clipped green beans and cover until beans are crisp tender
d. cut your fillet into two portions
e. meanwhile, heat another skillet with 1 tbsp coconut or peanut oil over medium-high heat
f. once oil starts popping, add trout fillets flesh side down in the pan, let cook for 4-5 minutes, then flip over, squeeze juice of one lime onto both pieces, & let cook another 2-3 minutes on the skin side
g. plate your green beans in curry sauce and place trout fillets on top garnished with chopped basil & cilantro

maple, bacon, & mustard trout with blanched green beans (for two)
a. get a pot of salted water over high heat ready for blanching the clipped beans
b. heat a dry skillet over medium heat
c. chop one slice of thick cut bacon into 1/4 inch squares and add to skillet
d. sautee bacon until just starting to crisp up, then add trout fillets to the pan flesh side down and cook for 4-5 minutes
e. meanwhile make up a mixture of 3 tbsp michigan maple syrup, 1 tbsp champagne vinegar, 1 tbsp whole grain dijon mustard, & 2 tbsp orange juice
f. drop green beans in boiling blanching water
g. flip fillets to skin side and add your maple mustard mixture to pan, let cook for another 3 minutes until fillets are cooked through & mixture is reduced by about 1/2
h. strain beans once they've reached your desired tenderness and put on plates
i. take the skillet off the heat & place trout fillets on top of beans. Add 2 tbsp butter to the skillet and stir/swirl in to make a butter sauce in the pan, drizzle on top of fish & green beans
j. garnish with toasted sliced almonds

grilled spicy pork skewers & yogurt sauce

2009-07-11T14:13:00.004-04:00

we buy our free range meats from creswick farms near grand rapids, mi, once a month. so far, i was at a lack of new ideas for the ground pork that's been in the back of our freezer all month long. then i came up with grilled spicy pork skewers, kind of like a pork variation of the middle eastern "kefta" & a good deviation from grilling hot dogs & burgers.
for the skewers:
a. if using wooden skewers, pre-soak in cold water for at least one hour
b. mix by hand 1 lb. ground pork, 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1/2 tsp. ground coriander, 1/2 tsp. ground hot chile pepper, 1/2 tsp. chile flakes, 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. black pepper, & 1/3 cup fine breadcrumbs until all is incorporated evenly throughout the meat
c. form 1 1/2 inch balls and then elongate them a bit before skewering through the center
d. place skewers on a pre-heated grill (high heat, 400F) or under broiler
e. let cook 3-5 minutes on each side or until cooked though (internal temp 160F)
f. remove from grill and let rest for a few minutes before eating

for the yogurt sauce:
a. start with 1/2 cup plain cultured yogurt
b. stir in 2 tsp chopped fresh mint, 1 tsp chopped fresh cilantro, 1 tsp fresh lemon juice, 1 tsp ground cumin, and salt and pepper to taste
c. use liberally to accompany skewers

chevre, sage & roasted corn stuffed squash blossoms

2009-07-09T11:11:00.006-04:00

this recipe is a great way to prepare raw squash blossoms combining two distinct michigan summer ingredients- sweet corn & squash blossoms. this appetizer will definitely impress your friends with it's slightly sweet and savory balance and natural beauty.
a. pick 12/18 squash blossoms fresh from the garden or buy some at the farmers market (try to use same day because they wilt if stored in refrigerator)
b. grill one ear of sweet corn until charred, or roast/broil in the oven, or cut it all off the cob first and sautee on high heat until it's tender and colorful
c. bring 12 oz. chevre to room temp and whip until light and fluffy with an electric mixer
d. chop a few sage leaves and mix with corn kernels into chevre with a pinch of salt and pepper
e. put filling mixture into a plastic ziploc bag and cut a small hole in one corner
f. handle each squash blossom gently and make a tear or slit open with a sharp pairing knife
g. remove the inner stamen of the flower
h. pipe filling into each blossom and twist petals to close the top

lazy michigan summer

2009-07-07T22:27:00.006-04:00

everyone said we were crazy for catering our own wedding- but then everyone who attended remarked that the food was fabulous. we kept the food simple and sourced mainly from local ann arbor businesses. now we can share some michigan summer recipes that you can make at home for any amount of people and not stress out too much about cost or time.

compound butter
a. let a pound or so of butter come to room temperature (we used calder dairy)
b. while that is happening prepare about a 1/2 cup of whatever it is you want to add to it
suggestions: finely chopped fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary, lemon balm, mint, tarragon, parsley, chives, basil, lavender or whatever is your fancy; minced bacon & roasted shallot; citrus zest, blue cheese
c. mix in by hand or with a electric mixer or on low
d. spoon out onto a piece of waxed paper (waxy side up) in a log shape about 1-2 in. diameter
e. roll completely in wax paper and twist or crease the edges
f. store in plastic wrap or bag in freezer for future use on bread, meat, fish, veggies or pasta

home at last

2009-07-07T13:28:00.006-04:00

we just returned to michigan from our two week new england honeymoon road trip. lobster is the hot shit in massachusetts & maine, along with local beer, and strawberries were still going strong on the roadside. Some of the culinary highlights for me were..

ithaca, ny: felicia's atomic lounge's gin & vodka infusions. cucumber gin & tonic, basil vodka tonic, & lovage vodka bloody mary all were outstanding (later we will try to infuse some of our own liquor and post the recipes and results)
maxie's supper club 1/2 off happy hour oysters from mass, connecticut and prince edward island.

hudson, ny: the spotty dog books & ale served us up pints of local beer on the cheap. I had the "mother's milk" stout from keegan ales in kingston, ny & monica had the "kick ass brown" from ch evans brewing co. in albany.

boston, ma: the beehive's deluxe raw bar platter for two was amazing (oysters, a whole lobster, ceviche, jumbo shrimp, and tuna tartare) and we got to see a live salsa band.
the other side cafe was a chill lunch spot for hipsters and their hot fixed gear bicycles. we had nachos and beer on the patio- never a bad combination.

bar harbor, me: mckay's public house wins for most bacon on one menu and for best mussels of the trip. They came out in the traditional shallow bowl heaped high and studded with blue cheese, bacon, leeks, butter and white wine, garnished with fresh herbs and served with foccaccia. the added elements were in just the right amount and the mussels themselves with delecate, clean and fresh tasting.

montreal, quebec: brasserie reservoire served it up right with artisanal beers and creative small plates. we shared a local cheese plate with three different cheese all from quebec, a lightly fried cup of calamari & japanese seven chili aioli, & a bowl of tender housemade ricotta gnudis (like gnocchi or italian dumplings) in a citric orange saffron consomme with braised fennel. oh and their beer was damn good, too. i had the noire, mo had the blanche x2.

added note: thanks to everyone who fed us along this trip- it would have been a cold bag of salami without you. xox.